A Batch of Appalachia - Humble Smoky Bean Soup

My “Southernness” is back. (Although not as far south as this recipe goes). I’ve been craving soup beans or a ham and bean soup - one of my old friend, Russ’s, favorite.

Soup beans are a traditional dish common in the Appalachian region, especially in areas like Kentucky, Tennessee, and West Virginia. At its core, soup beans refers to dried beans that have been cooked way down, slowly with some sort of seasoning, often pork, to make a hearty, brothy meal.

Most commonly used are pinto beans, but sometimes navy, great northern, or other beans are used.

The broth is usually thick and rich, simply seasoned (not always in my case), not as thin as a soup but not as dry as baked beans.

Soup beans were historically a staple food because dried beans are inexpensive, filling, and shelf-stable. They’re a comfort food for many in the Appalachian and Southern regions.

I wish I could cook these in the fireplace for a few hours, but since I moved, I gave those up - I’ll just have to pretend.

INGREDIENTS

1 pound dried pinto beans

1.5 – 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut in roughly 1 inch chunks

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large or two small onions, diced

4 stalks celery, diced, with greens*

1 pint sliced button or Cremini mushrooms

4 cloves garlic, minced

6 cups chicken stock

1-2 chipotles in adobo

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon black pepper

salt, to taste

For serving:

Sourdough or cornbread

sliced spring onions

METHOD

Go through 1 pound dried pinto beans to make sure there are no rocks. Place them into a large bowl. Add enough cold water to cover the beans by 2 inches. Cover with plastic wrap and sit at room temperature for 8 hours or overnight.

Drain the beans well and set aside.

In a Dutch oven on medium, heat the oil and butter.

Pepper the chicken and cook it until slightly browned on both sides in the oil/butter. Remove the chicken and set aside. It’s important not to add salt at this stage as it can make the beans seize up and get tough.

In the same oil/butter, cook the onion, celery and garlic until softened. Add the mushrooms and cook for 3-4 more minutes. You can add a little more butter if needed.

Add 6 cups chicken stock, beans, the chicken, 1 bay leaf, and stir to combine.

Chop fine 1 chipotle pepper and add some of the adobo sauce. This adds the tiniest bit of heat. Add 2 for just a little more. This adds a nice smokiness that you’d usually get from ham hocks, but the chicken is great in it.

Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer for 1-2 hours until the beans are very soft, and the liquid has thickened slightly. If it’s not to the thickness you like, cook for another 30 minutes. Lather, rinse, repeat. I like my soup beans basically falling apart.

Add salt to taste. Serve immediately with bread. Traditionally, you can top with bacon, chow chow or sliced spring onions.

Of course, a little moonshine, some Pilsner or a nice Kentucky bourbon on the side wouldn’t be bad.